Author's Note: This is a short rant written in 2022 in response to an argument I had about the best method for keeping records of time. I have lightly adapted it for this format and made minor changes where appropriate.
For those in the US, you're probably used to the MDY (Month, Day, Year) date format, along with using a 12-hour clock. This system is bad and is rife with confusion. Most other systems are even worse (I'm lookin' at you DMY).
If we're gonna make it to the glorious techno-future then we're gonna need to get on the same track about dates and times... but if we're destined for nuclear hellfire / apocalypse, then I guess this rant won't matter.
Anyway, the only useful and correct date / time format is Year > Month > Day > Hour > Minute > Second. Big to small. Old to new.
In a computer system—or even a paper-based system—this format will sort files in perfect chronological order. Let's take a look at an example.
You have three files that need to be sorted and three methods to do so:
1st file is from Dec. 31, 1999
2nd file is from Mar. 4, 2013
3rd file is from Aug. 11, 2019
This system has the files in order by the day of their respective month. The day in which something occur is almost always less important than the chronology of its occurrence in relation to other events. This system is bad.
This system has the same issue as the previous method. The month in which something occurs is helpful, but the October of one year is very different than the October twenty years hence. This system is bad.
This system solves the chronology issues of the above two methods. Dates are grouped with those that are closest together in time and go from the past, to the present, to the future.
1999-12-31.txt
2013-03-04.txt
2019-08-11.txt
2024 Update: I was well aware of the International Organization for Standardization by this point, but didn't bother to look into their suggestions for time keeping. Turns out ISO 8601 covers the above completely and should be adopted worldwide galaxywide immediately. If you're curious, another resource you can reference is Wikipedia's list of date formats by country.
2025 Update: Furthermore, I suggest completely abolishing the concept of time-zones. The date and time should be the exact same all over the universe. "But what about business hours or my alarm clock??? WhO wAnTs To Go SeE a MaTinEe At 22:00 UTC??" Those remarks could only be writted by the utterly deranged and altering the concept of time to fit a human store's business hours—not to mention someone's personal schedule—is an absolutely insane thing to suggest. ALSO, how the hell us Coordinated Universal Time abbreviated to UTC? ALSO ALSO, DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME.
The last few days have been full of excitement and frustration. My new car is nice, but has some minor underlying issues that I wanted to take care of before I put too many miles on it.
01: Air Filters There are two slab-style filters in the cabin and a cylindrical one in the engine bay. The engine filter was swapped without much trouble; just four screws and moving some hoses is all it took. The cabin filters were much more involved; first you have to drop the glovebox, then you have to remove a little plastic door, then you pull out both filters. This last part was the most troublesome as the filters seemed anchored in place. I gave them the 'ol heave-ho and they popped right out... alongside some rodent crap and goddamn CHICKEN BONES. A lot of them!
I tossed the larger pieces, vacuumed out the spilled mess in my passenger seat area (as well as what I could get to under where the filters go), popped the new filters in, and reassembled. I then promptly started the AC, sprayed one of those Ozium car bomber things, and let it cook for a while. This helped the smell a great deal, but it kind of came back a few days later, much better than before though. I'll clean the engine bay and air intake more soon.
02: The driver's seat Mine—like almost all Elements—has a front-to-back tear on the driver's seat, on the side closest to the door. I purchased a leather repair kit on Amazon for about $6 and cut it to fit the seat, applied it with a hairdryer, and it seems to be holding up well enough. I have another sheet if I need to make a replacement patch in a few months.
The faux leather patch on my driver's seat
03: Speakers The OEM speakers in a lot of the Elements I've seen have been blown or are just disintegrating. I suppose those materials just weren't designed to last 20+ years. I replaced the four door speakers with Harman Infinity Reference 6532ex's, about $140 total as I got them refurbished with a $10 speaker adapter cable set. The sound is much better and they seem to pair well with the existing subwoofer and tweeters.
A before-and-after of the speakers in my E
04: Spark Plugs The existing plugs were probably original and while they showed some discoloration, the ceramic wasn't cracking and the electrodes weren't too badly corroded, so I suppose they held up well. I replaced them with a set of NGK Laser Iridium 6994 plugs, cleaned and greased the existing coils, torqued it all to spec, and the engine fired up without issue.
05: Oil Change When buying a used car, fluids are tricky as it can be difficult to know when if they were changed and if they were done properly (they weren't). I already had a new jug of 5W-20 High Mileage oil that I planned to put into my current car, but I have a few miles left until that time comes, so I elected to use it for the Element. That was the easy part, it turns out, the last guy to put an oil filter on the engine was invigorated by Hercules himself and it was completely stuck in place. This was quite the issue for me and turned a thirty minute oil change into a four-hour long living nightmare with multiple trips to the hardware store and to a garage on a nearby property.
Turns out, a major design oversight with the Element is the placement of the oil filter. It is situated in a hard to reach space and even with small hands, I wasn't able to comfortably reach it, much less get any sort of grip onto its slick surface. I tried three different oil wrenches; an adjustable clampy kind, an adjustable rubber grippy kind, and a 64mm oil filter wrench specifically designed for OEM filters. None of these provided any amount of traction and I was unable to loosen it at all with them. I resorted to finding a hose clamp, wrenching it onto the cheapo filter with similar vigor, and tapping it with a screwdriver / hammer combo until it finally gave way and unscrewed. I replaced it with an OEM filter marked with the date and mileage, filled the oil up, drove it for a minute or so, topped it up to get it to full, and called it an afternoon.
My E up on ramps while I changed the oil and headlight housings
06: Headlight Housing But the afternoon wasn't called quite yet as my new headlight housings came in and I already had the car up on Rhino Ramps so I may as well take the opportunity to yank off the bumper cover, vacuum out some more chicken bones, and pop in the new headlight lenses. The old ones were kind of yellow and while they were in usable shape, I like a crystal clear headlight and the replacements I ordered were a black-accented set for about $120. The install was quick and easy, I even replaced some of the cracked / missing clips from the bumper cover.
A before-and-after of the headlights on my E
07. Radio One of my excursions to the local car scrapyard netted me a car radio from a 2008 Element. It was a tad rusty and needed some TLC, but I took a gamble and spent about $40 on it. I took it home, completely disassembled it, cleaned the hell out of it, snapped it back together, and... that was it for a few weeks. I bought the radio before I had an Element to test it in so all I could do was guess as to whether it was working or not. Another issue I didn't anticipate was the anti-theft system Honda put on their radios. You need a 5-digit code to "unlock" the radio whenever power is removed from it. I took a photo of the car as well as the VIN when I took the radio from the parts yard and I'm glad I did as it was just what I needed to get the code from Honda. I also grabbed the surrounding snap-on plastic trim as I wasn't sure if I would need it, turns out I did need it as the 2003 radio's shroud didn't fit on the 2008 radio.
To test the radio, I actually assembled this weird little box that consists of a Honda radio harness connected to a computer power supply with the radio on top and held together with metal strips and zip ties. While janky looking, this machine allows me to power on and test Element radios safely. I plan to connect a pair of car speakers to it in the future and create a de facto shop radio with a CD player. This contraption help the '08 radio for a few weeks, but I eventually swapped it into my Element and put its '03 radio into the shop radio box. The speakers come in a few days, I'll give you an update when it's all done.
My sketchy Element radio tester (Obverse)
My sketchy Element radio tester (Reverse)
08: Hatch Struts On a lot of Elements, the rear hatch supports seem to fail after a number of years. Mine still held the hatch up, but had trouble raising it without manual assistance. Per a forum comment, I opted to replace mine with a pair of VW Beetle struts from Amazon. $20 and 3 minutes of install later and my hatch opens up quickly and a few inches taller than it used to. The struts I got were these ECCPP 4325 Rear Hatchback Lift Supports
09: LED Lights As far as I know, there are only nineteen light bulbs on an Element, not including the dash and HVAC system; Two high / low beam headlights, four turn signals, three brake lights (Revision: There are five brake lights IIRC), two reverse lights, two side markers, two license plate lights, two map lights, and two dome lights. I have replaced all of these with LEDs of appropriate colors and they are brilliantly bright now. The only lights that are still incandescent are the headlights, I have an LED set coming in a day or so, but I don't usually like them and I'm not sure if I'll keep them yet. While replacing the lights, I cleaned up the various mounts, housings, and lenses to make them look a little less dirty.
10: Battery The standard battery in an E is a Group 51R battery and in my case, it was listed as having 500 CCA. This battery is widely regarded as undersized, so I elected to replace it with a larger, group 24F battery. The cheap Walmart one I grabbed ($70 + $12 core charge) states to have 600 CCA. To accomplish this install, I bent the existing battery tray tie down tabs flat, bolted on a universal battery tray ($10) on top, and dropped in the new battery. A $10 tie down kit solidified the upgrade and made it a clean install. I cut the J bolts for the new tie downs about 20mm shorter and used some threadlocker on the battery tray bolt to help with vibration. I was even able to reuse the little zip-tied cable loom clip that connects to the J bolt to keep those cables from rubbing on the bare metal.
The new battery tray and single bolt
The new battery completely installed
11: Tires While the back two tires on my E are Michelin, the date code puts their manufacture date in Q4 of 2013, far too old for safe use, not to mention the dry rot creeping around the tread. The front tires aren't much better. While they are only two years old, they're a no-name brand and should be part of a matching set. I opted to get a new set of Crosswind All Season Light Truck tires from Walmart. I've never cared much for fancy tires and I'm pretty cheap, so I think these'll be fine for a while. My first stop after the tires is to get an alignment though as it's such an important step that a lot of people seem to gloss over after getting new tires is to get their car properly aligned.
Please enjoy the Elements that I've spotted recently:
A Silver and Blue Element at the gas station
Another Blue Element at the junkyard
A Green Element in traffic
A Khaki Element near my house (I believe it's the same one from the last post)
Tuesday, July 16th of 2024 was the day that I finally bought my 2nd car. I was fortunate to find a 2003 Honda Element in Sunset Orange Pearl with a mere 129K (rust free) miles on it just a few hours' drive away. I called off work, drove up there, and spent the afternoon haggling with an Arabic kid, trying to talk him and his dad off of the $8K that they wanted for the E.
Before I expressed any specific interest, I made sure to (literally) crawl over every inch of it and take in the total condition. I tested the windows (more on that later), the locks, looked for rust, checked panel gaps, respray, chips, scratches, tires, etc. I even scurried under the damn thing to check the mission-critical undercarriage.
The main sales associate tossed me the keys and basically said "have fun". I took it for a twenty minute test drive on the nearby street, highway, and I even tested the braking power in an abandoned parking lot. I came back, pointed out the mismatched tires, small amount of wear 'n tear, and the rusty bumper but they wouldn't budge far off of their sticker price.
Unfortunately, I'm not much of a haggler so I was only able to knock off the paperwork fee; a $600 (in my case), bullshit charge for selling me a car and filling out half-a-dozen pages of simple paperwork. I paid cash, signed some documents, and was on my way.
My Orange Element in the dealer's lot
The drive home was helpful as it gave me a much longer-term idea of the drivability of the Element—my Element—as well as some of the issues I noticed.
Windows
The passenger window seems to only work intermittently. It worked fine when I tested it not two hours earlier, but it seemed to have died in the interim.
Noise
There's some high-pitched squeaky sound that revealed itself at around 72mph and wasn't noticeable at significantly higher or lower speeds.
Drivability
The overall suspension and alignment need attention. I plan to address those before I put too many more miles on it.
I got it home, spent a while buffing out the goddamn Armor All, and eventually got it to a slightly less oily condition. The interior, seats, body, and trim are in remarkably good condition though. I plan to rust-proof it, rub some conditioner into the plastic trim, and coat the paint with a simple rub-on, wipe-off wax.
At the request of my coworkers, I drove it to my office the next day and they all took a look at it out in the parking lot before the day started. I showed off some of the obvious features including the folding seats, suicide doors, and hatch / tailgate.
I really only plan to drive it as a secondary vehicle; at least until I can replace the fluids, change the tires, and get the whole thing aligned.
This weekend, I plan to change the oil, swap all he lights with LEDs (except the headlights, those stay halogen, swap the air filters (cabin and engine), de-stinkify it (smells like undesirables), and replace the hatch struts as they aren't very weak, but they don't lift up much on their own. I'll take some pictures and include in the next entry, but for now, please enjoy the Element pictures I've captured on the last few days:
A Khaki Element on my drive home
A Green Element in a nearby town
A Blue Element in a parking lot
A Green Element that I found on Google maps (Aug, 2008)
A Craigslist ad I put up while looking for an Element
Somewhere around 2018, a longtime friend of mine recommended that I ditch my 19-year-old, spray painted, dented up, rust bucket for a Honda Element. I basically ignored his advice for a few years as my cheap ass is way too stingy to buy a half-decent car for what those crook car dealers want and my current car works fine (most of the time). Cut to a few months ago, I'm leaving a Walmart parking lot and I see a 1st gen Element (2003-2006) sitting a few spots away from me with a For Sale sign in the window.
I walked around it for a minute, took some pictures of the sign and number, then realized there were people in the front seat (whoops). The guy was nice and showed me around the vehicle for a minute, started it up, and let me know the mileage (220,000 mi) and the price ($3,000 iirc). I thanked him and thought about it for a few days. I decided I should go for it and texted the number. Unfortunately, the car was sold the day before. Bummer.
A few more months go by and I don't pay the Element market much mind. I happened to drive past a used car lot and out in front there sat an Element being used as a billboard to advertise some local mechanic. I jotted down the number and gave it a call later that day. The man said that the sign isn't available for sale, but he did have a 2003 black Element for sale, 240K miles, and priced to move. He sent me some photos of it and then stopped responding to my texts. Another bummer, perhaps it sold.
The Billboard Element
Couple days later, I see a black Element parked next to a few cars on the side of a road that I pass going to work. There was no For Sale sign or contact info. so I had to do a bit of detective work. I found the house on Google Maps, found a business that was right behind it and cold called them. A man answered, I asked about the Element and he gave me the number of the man who owns it. It matched the number of the Element from the billboard! I found the car and it hasn't been sold yet. I called the number and spoke with the owner again, let him know that I drive by the car daily, and that I'd like to see it if possible. We set a date and time, I showed up, and he gave me the grand tour.
The car was dirty, not well maintained, had some really sketchy lower kit on it (basically some U-bolts on the shocks), cheap tint, broken or missing panels, and some other cosmetic issues. I gave it a quick test drive, turned down his $2,700 cash-in-hand offer, and went home. Bummer #2.5.
In May, I won an ebay auction for a 2005 Honda Element EX with 104K miles on it in Satin Silver Metallic with a Surf Blue accented interior. No mechanical issues (more on this later), a cheap shipping quote, and a moderately high ebay seller rating made me confident that the car would be fine if not great.
A week after I sent my bank wire and signed all the paperwork, I message the seller to see when I'll get my car. She (Annie) says that they've put the job up on the shipping site and that it'll go out next week.
A week later, she says that the Element has developed a transmission issue and her mechanic is looking into it.
A week later, she says that they'll put a replacement transmission in it free-of-charge and they're waiting on parts.
A week later, she says that the replacement transmission failed and it's still having trouble shifting.
A total of 35 days after I paid for my car, they call me and say that they're going to refund me the full amount and keep the car.
This seller (jetafel and autoresale2on ebay) is incredibly shady and was terrible about communicating the status of the car that I already paid for ($7,000 after shipping and "processing fees"). I waited for my refund check to clear and once it did, I wrote up my ordeal in a jaded (but certainly true) ebay review. This was immediately appealed and removed by them, but at least it helped tank their seller rating. Bummer #3.
The scam eBay Element (1)
2025 Update: This seller is definitely a scam. If any ebay seller asks you to call someone named "Annie" with a PA area code, beware! It's definitely the same seller. I found the same Element being sold multiple times in the last few months (as of 2025-09-22):
The scam eBay Element (2)
While I was certainly disappointed, I was not defeated. I began crawling all of the used car sites (AutoTempest is a great tool for that) in search of another Element. I traveled about two hours south of my home to see an Element I found on Craigslist with around 150K miles on it. I found the car, shook hands with the guy selling it, and began examining the car with a fine-tooth-comb. I peered in every little nook and cranny; I fired it up and took it for a spin; and I crawled underneath the damn thing while it was parked on the street. The results weren't good; there was lots of rust, interior was shredded by dogs, and the owner clearly had no idea about the finer details concerning its condition. I turned down his $6,200 offer and drove home. Bummer #4.
With quite a few bummers on my mind, I wearily returned to the used car websites and began the search yet again. I even briefly turned to looking for a 2nd gen CR-V as they seemed to be a little more available, but I found out they are just as rare and desirable (I just want the little card table and the spare on the back door). Everyone wants upwards of $8K for a ~20 year old car that is reliable sure, but ugly as sin and not very powerful. I suppose there are more people out there like me than I suspected.
One of the Elements I saw a few times happened to be for sale just a few minutes from my work and the dealership had reasonable hours. I sent an inquiry and was met with some pushback as they insisted that their 2005 E with 128K miles on it was absolutely worth the $10K that they were asking for it. I scheduled to see it anyway and I went there after work yesterday to check it out.
This dinky little dealer was getting to be more lipstick than pig, but I gave them a chance, gave them my ID, and they pulled the Sunset Orange Pearl beauty around for me to test drive. The car was like the dealer—a polished turd. Sure it had pretty low mileage for an E of this antiquity, but the amount of paint respray, loose body panels, and weird devices wired into the engine bay made me sure it wasn't worth my time, let alone $10K. I puttered around in it for about ten minutes, but due to traffic conditions, I wasn't able to take it over 50 mph. I returned to the dealer, handed them the keys, and left without even discussing a purchase.
The Orange Element at the dealership
There's another orange E about two hours north of me that I plan to check out this weekend. But in the meantime, I thought it would be fun for me to collect the Element pictures I've taken in the last few months and arrange them below, enjoy!
A Silver Element near my work
A Blue Element at the junkyard
A Green Element in a drive-through
A Green Element on my drive home
An Orange Element on my drive home
Bonus Story: I also briefly considered buying this rusted-out 1998 Dodge Neon for $250 as a favor to the owner and a project for myself. After finding out the totality of the damage though—it was sitting for about five years and the transmission was completely seized—I decided to turn it down. I did however see it at the junkyard a few weeks later, which was interesting.
I use a gamepad when I play PC games, at least in the majority of 1st Person games. Between annoying keyboard layouts, a decade of console gaming before I ever built a PC, and sheer laziness, I find it to be the easiest and most comfortable way to play most games.
My first few years of playing games were spent primarily on the PS2 and PS3. They were okay consoles with a good library of games, but a ton of technical problems that I won't get into here. However, one thing I absolutely hated about both consoles were the controllers.
DualShock 3 controller
The DualShock 3 was uncomfortable, cheap feeling, and basically unusable on a PC. The layout of the controller was awful, it was too small, and the shape wasn't ergonomic, but the DS3 had one redeeming feature that I'll mention below.
Later, I would buy a used Xbox 360 from a pawn shop. The controller was quite different from a DS3, but light years better. It felt alright in the hand, buttons made more sense, had a good feeling of weight and solidity to it, an all around 6/10. AA batteries, a weird proprietary data cable, and shit windows support kept it from going into regular use in my setup.
DualShock 4 controller
When November 2013 rolled around, I ended up buying a PS4 a few weeks before Christmas, which entered a new contender in the ring: Sony's DualShock 4. This controller was much, much better than the DS3. It was solid, felt great, had a fun light bar, a rechargeable internal battery, and wasn't using a proprietary connector. BUT, four major flaws put this controller in the garbage where it rightfully belongs;
A stupid button / stick layout
That retarded touch bar that ate up 20% of the controller face
Almost nonexistent Windows support
God-damned Micro-USB
Last-generation's DS3 controller had a sharp advantage over the DS4 however: Mini-USB. This connector is older, but far better than Micro-USB for one reason, it (almost) never wore out. Mini-USB cables are just as useful in 2006 as they are in 2022, they just keep going.
I can't even begin to express my utter and unquenchable hatred of Micro-USB. It's insane how much disdain and loathing I have for such a small, shitty USB interface. Micro-USB male connectors use a small, mechanical clip mechanism to hold the connector in place. This serves to secure the cable when inserted into a controller, cellphone, etc. This is good in theory (think DisplayPort, which I also hate), but in practice this "feature" introduces an artificial lifespan to any given cable. These clips wore out so fast your head would spin, especially with repeated connect / disconnect cycles (i.e. with a phone or some sort of peripheral device).
DS4 controllers also suffered from a few design flaws beyond the ones mentioned above. For instance, the left thumbstick and accompanying button (L3) would wear out fairly quickly with the stick easily losing the ability to track forward movement, especially within the Call of Duty game franchise. I've had L-Stick problems on every DS4 controller that I've played CoD on and I'm not heavy handed or hard on my controllers.
Xbox One controller
Alongside the PS4, came the Xbox One as well. With it came a new controller and Microsoft actually did some good work this time. The controller was solid, comfy, had a halfway-decent button layout, a standardized connector, and good Windows support. Only a few problems still remained;
AA batteries (again)
Offset thumbsticks (again)
Micro-USB (again)
I settled on an Xbox One controller and went about my life for a number of years. MS eventually replaced the original, chunky controller with a sleeker and all-around better model a few years later with the release of the Xbox One S. Later still, the Xbox Core controllers entered the market, this time packing the much more acceptable USB Type-C connector. Finally, some good features. I grabbed a Blue core controller for $65 (yikes) and a rechargeable battery pack and lived happily ever after.
Until about a year into the controller's lifespan when my thumbsticks started drifting. Both DS and Xbox controllers suffer from pervasive thumbstick problems. They're easily the largest weak point on a game controller. They're incredibly prone to wear, misalignment, dead-zones, sticking, ghosting, drifting, and a million other verbs that I can't remember. The design of thumbsticks for both brands are largely the same; a left / right potentiometer and a button, simple. Problem is, they're finicky and fragile.
This wouldn't be an issue if the thumbsticks were user replaceable though: pop open the controller, fish out both sticks, put in some new ones, and you're off to the races or battle or whatever (kinda like how some Cherry MX switches are swappable). This isn't the case however. There are fourteen (!) solder points for each of these thumbsticks and for someone like myself who isn't the best solderer, this proves troublesome to remedy myself. Furthermore, replacement potentiometers need to be live-aligned, which is a tedious and frustrating task in itself. That mechanism I mentioned was also designed so poorly as to never really read as centered. Apparently, the controllers just sort of tare the factory alignment so you never notice a difference. That is, until the original thumbsticks wear and you go to replace them yourself.
With all of that out of the way, here is the core position I hold in this discussion. Controllers need to be fixed, and luckily there are really only a few fixes that need to be made.
Firstly, the layout. Gamepads have sort-of landed on a set layout (except for Sony), this layout consists of two thumbsticks (+ L3 / R3), four face buttons (A, B, X, Y), L / R bumpers and triggers, a D-Pad, Start, Select, and a Home button. I excluded Sony because they seem to be straying from this standard with the DS4 and DS5 controllers' notable lack of Start, Select, (trading them for Options and Share for some dumb reason) and the inclusion of that useless touchpad.
This layout is typically accomplished with the face buttons, D-Pad, and thumbsticks sharing real estate on the front of a controller, with the bumpers and triggers on the back or top (depending on your perspective). PlayStation accomplishes this with both thumbsticks on the lower plane, while the D-Pad and face buttons share the upper plane. Sony almost has it right with this layout, but not quite. Microsoft has the left thumbstick and face buttons on the top plane, with the D-Pad and right thumbstick on the lower. Again, this is close, but not optimal. There is actually only one controller that I know of with their thumbsticks and buttons in a sane and ergonomic position: The Nintendo Wii U Pro controller.
Wii U Pro controller
This unlikely candidate does the incredible, it actually has the D-Pad, face buttons, and thumbsticks in the correct orientation. At rest, the human thumb is in line with the bones of the forearm. This means, at rest, the thumb wants to sit over the top plane of a gamepad. Sony controllers have both thumbsticks on the lower plain, meaning you have to strain your thumbs down to interface with those sticks. While Microsoft has it half-right with just the left thumbstick in this position, the right thumb still needs to be bent to utilize the right thumbstick.
Gulikit Zen Pro controller
Update 1: Since writing the above section, Gulikit, a 3rd Party, Chinese controller manufacturer has become popular among those of us who share the above gripes about carbon potentiometers in game controllers. Their new design retains much of the old thumbstick design, but with electromagnetic potentiometers that should last significantly longer and retain their calibration to a much tighter tolerance. I just purchased one of their Zen Pro controllers ($50 on eBay) and one of their wireless controller adapters. I'll probably also 3D print some trigger stops for it as I have become accustomed to using them on my Xbox Elite Series 2 controller that I bought broken – which I then repaired – a few months ago. That controller is starting to have other problems and I think a replacement is in order.
My mockup controller
To further illustrate how possible it would be to create such a perfect controller, I created a mockup Xbox controller in Photoshop that displays this ergonomic layout as I have envisioned. Put both thumbsticks are on the same upper plane, replace the plastic thumbstick caps with aluminum ones (as I do on my controllers), pair this layout with Gulikit's electromagnetic potentiometers, and some adjustable trigger-stops like the Elite Series 2 and you have a perfect controller that should last a very long time. If only such a controller existed...
Update 2: I have received the controller and swapped the plastic thumbstick caps for silver aluminum ones. I think it looks pretty slick and it feels butter-smooth. The build quality is about 75% of the way there compared to a standard Xbox Core controller, but it still feels fairly solid and seems to be easy enough to repair. The unit is only held together by four phillips screws and some clips. I'll play some Vermintide 2 tonight and see how it performs. In the meantime, here are some pics of my controller.
My Zen Pro controller - Obverse
My Zen Pro controller - Reverse
2024 Update: After about seven months of use, the left thumbstick has started giving me trouble when sprinting in CoD (pressing forward on the thumbstick and clicking the L3 button at the same time). This failure is very common among OEM Xbox One Series X/S controllers, as well as original Xbone and DualShock controllers. I'll see about trying to repair it myself and if not, perhaps I'll invest in the next generation of Gulikit controller.
2025 Update: I have basically stopped using my Zen pro controller. It doesn't seem to be as sturdy as my Xbox Core controllers and the left trigger started failing alongside that thumbstick. When I do play games, I usually stick to the Core controller or a keyboard and mouse. I plan to keep using my Core controller until Microsoft produces one with hall-effect thumbsticks. I also haven't played games much in the last two years due to work and home life taking up more of my free time.
JFP1 (Jumper Front Panel 1) is the name for the header that connects a motherboard to the power switch, reset switch, Power LED, and HDD LED of the chassis. The cables can be quite annoying to connect in small cases and the motherboard doesn't always label them, so I find myself referring to a pinout diagram often, such as the example below.
JFP1 Pinout Diagram
I dislike the implementation of this connector and I think PC case manufacturers should start using a single connector instead of four or five separate cables.
These cables use "DuPont connectors" to interface with the chassis and motherboard and they seem to be used in a lot of electronics and hobby applications. As an experiment, I ordered a set of 2x5 DuPont connectors to see if I could accomplish this unification myself. Referencing a JFP pinout diagram, I removed the wires from the case's connectors, attached them all to the new DuPont connector, plugged it into a motherboard, and pressed the power switch.
It worked as expected and I now plan to outfit all of my desktop cases for the next century with this single connector. No more orientation guesswork, no more looking up "PC front panel pinout" or checking manuals. Some motherboard companies have tried to mitigate this problem by using labeled riser cards to make cabling easier, but my solution will permanently fix whatever case I apply it to.
Note: Since writing this section, I have applied these new DuPont connectors to half-a-dozen cases with great success. I will do it to all future cases I own.
Over the last month or so, my poor co-workers have been my captive audience for many hours of discussion and rambling about my desire to upgrade / rebuild / replace my NAS (Network Attached Storage) solution at my house. Currently, I have three NASs: a Synology DS216j, a Synology DS418, and a homemade AMD Ryzen based system in my Fractal Design Define 7 case.
Synology DS216j NAS
The DS216j was my first NAS purchased in the mid-late 2010s. Before this I primarily used an array of external hard drives, flash drives, and whatever else I could scrounge up to keep my stuff relatively straight and findable. With the DS216, I purchased two 4 TB Seagate IronWolf NAS hard drives for around $130 a pop. The 4 TB of usable space the RAID 1 setup provided was incredible and I quickly made use of this newly available digital real estate.
Synology DS418 NAS
About two years after that, I got my first IT job and began to make some real money ($7.80 an hour), allowing me to buy NAS No. 2. Around 2019, my DS418 made its way into my home and into my heart. I backed up the DS216j, removed the RAID 1 array, formatted both drives, and slapped them into my new four bay enclosure. I picked up two more Seagate 4 TB drives (for around $115 each) and completed my first RAID 5 array. Now with 12 TB of usable space.
Four years later and the time has come for me to upgrade once more. I actually purchased a new set of four 8 TB IronWolf drives ($160 a piece this time) around six months ago, even going so far as to build my own NAS out of spare parts and some Unbuffered ECC DDR4 that I picked up on eBay. This system seemed to work well, but in the Define 7 case, it was just too unwieldly and cumbersome to implement in my small house.
I almost took the lazy route of cutting my losses and buying a QNAP TS-462 enclosure and calling it a day. But this unit is (at the time of writing, $470). This is too much for my tight budget so I decided to stick to the DIY path and build one on my own. This venture will require a bit of planning and some thrifty shopping, spanning a few different online retailers and continents.
CW-N5105-NAS Motherboard
Firstly, I need a motherboard. Something with an SOC and at least four SATA ports, a NIC, and preferably in an ITX form factor. I decided to go with an off-brand Intel Pentium SOC board similar to the unit pictures and that NASCompares brought to my attention in this video. The unit I went with was about $130 on AliExpress.
This MOBO has six SATA ports, four 2.5G NICs, two DDR4 SO-DIMM slots, and two M.2 NVMe slots. This should be way more I/O and connections than I need for my setup, but I'll take it and consider it room to grow into.
Unbranded 4-Bay NAS Enclosure
Secondly, I need an enclosure. My Define 7 is a great case, sturdy, and with more 3.5" bays than I can afford to fill, but it's very heavy and unwieldly for the small amount of components I planned to stuff into it. The perfect case for my needs would be rather small and closer to the form factor of a standard 4-Bay NAS, preferably with four or more 3.5" hot-swap bays, support for a standard Mini ITX board, and cost less than $100 (I'm not made of money).
I found the above no-name case that really fit the bill and for around $80 new on Amazon. Along with that case, I grabbed a Noctua 80mm case fan to replace the stock exhaust and four left-angle (?) SATA cables to better suit this chassis.
T.F. SkywindIntl Flex ATX PSU
Thirdly, I need a Flex ATX / 1U power supply. This is turning out to be the most difficult component to obtain, at least for a reasonable price. Silverstone has a reputable unit, but I can't justify spending another hundred dollars on yet another PSU to add to my collection. With a reputable brand out of the question, I'll resort to a less-reputable source to obtain a PSU. With slim options, I'm leaning away from the cheap Apevia unit that is usually at the top of search results and toward some even less well-known brand named T.F. Skywindintl that I found on AliExpress, Amazon, and eBay.
The unit pictured seems to cover all my bases and (assuming it doesn't blow up) should serve this build well. I'll probably go with this unit on eBay for around $50, the 60-day return window offered by the seller is a plus too.
Once all these components come in, I may make a follow-up post that details any weird aspects of the build that may materialize.
Topton NAS N1
2024 Update: I sold both of the Synology NAS enclosures to a coworker, bought and assembled all of the parts I specified above for a custom NAS, and even purchased another NAS enclosure, the latest one being a Topton NAS N1 (shown above). This Topton NAS is fairly cheap and often sold as a white label enclosure through various different brands on sites like AliExpress (where I got mine). It has an AMD APU, 2x DDR3 SO-DIMM slots, 2x NVMe M.2 slots, and 2x 3.5" HDD bays. I replaced the generic fan with a Noctua branded one, but I had to zip-tie it on as the fan screws weren't compatible with it.
The custom NAS has been working well, it's pretty quiet, and was fairly easy to build. I started off the project with four 8TB Seagate Iron Wolf drives, one of which died right away and I sent it off in July to be RMA'd (six months later and I have still not received this drive back). I set this NAS aside until around October, then I spent a good chunk of change on four 16TB WD UltraStar drives. These drives in a RAIDZ2 gave me about three-dozen Terabytes of storage which should last me quite a while.
Currently, I'm using just these latest two NASs for storage; The Topton NAS N1 for media and a Jellyfin server and the custom NAS as general storage and backups.
Assuming that life doesn't get inexplicably better before I'm old, I plan to retire my body (when the tech has arrived) and my consciousness into the silicon (or other future material) world.
I'm not terribly concerned about the cosmic, "SOMA" questions about whether you could actually move or merely copy a consciousness into a digital medium. Humans don't know what a consciousness really is or what happens after death and I sincerely doubt that will change in sixty years. I'll take my chances with the cybergods (and I'll be one of them soon enough).
So while you meatbags are rotting in the ground, I'll be in cyberspace; surfing the net, playing Minecraft, and reading all the books that I can cram into my flash chips.
Assuming I don't get murdered, imprisoned, or wheeled into the county morgue by any other untimely means that is.
I grew up in a rural part of the US in the early 2000s. I didn't have much in the way of technology for most of my younger years. At the age of eight or so, my family got a Dell Inspiron 530S for my siblings and I to play on. We still didn't have much in the way of internet however, most of the time on the computer was spent playing old PC games (Zoo Tycoon was the family favorite). My Dad's blackberry was used as a tethered hotspot for the family desktop for quite a while. Eventually, we upgraded to a 3G hotspot from Verizon with a 5 GB data limit each month. This was great as we could start to use the internet in a more stable and regular manner.
After using this desktop for a number of years and getting well acquainted with Windows Vista, my Dad noticed my growing computer proficiency. One day, around the age of eleven, he sat me down and said something like this:
"Son, you are more gifted with using a computer than I will ever be. I've worked with my hands all my life, but computers, they are the future. I want you to build your own computer, I'll help you buy the parts, but you've got to do the rest. I know you don't know much about how they work, but I want you to learn."
So I did. I spent many months reading, asking questions, and watching videos about how computers work, what they're made of, and why anyone would build their own computer when they could just buy one. Level1Techs, Linus Tech Tips, Bitwit, and The Tom's Hardware forum (just to name a few) were all tremendously helpful for someone who knew next to nothing about computers at ten but was able to build their very own desktop by age twelve.
That desktop did not last forever, as no computer will, and after a number of years of service, there had been an issue with the power supply that led to the death of the machine. Looking back, it was probably easily fixable, but no matter. The desktop was given to me to take care of and I disassembled it for what parts I could take. The 120 GB hard drive (iirc), the few gigs of DDR2, CPU, and Motherboard all made their way out of the device and into my possession.
I held on to the chassis as well, but as I learned more about computers, I realized that this chassis didn't have a removable I/O shield. In its stead was a fixed plate, for only the original motherboard. This wouldn't do, so I cut out the plate with some tools and I was eventually able to fit an aftermarket motherboard in that case. Later, I realized what a terrible cut job I had made, so I trashed the whole thing and moved on.
After doing months of research and a lot of reading on the matter, I was confident that I could pick the correct parts to build a functional computer. My Dad and I sat down, we navigated Amazon and eBay and Newegg, eventually settling on a selection of parts. Most notably, an MSI GeForce GTS 450 graphics card. This card was terrible, even for the time. But it was inexpensive and was compatible with the parts I had. Some of the needed parts (a chassis, power supply, and disk drive) I had on hand from an old PC that my Dad's boss donated to my project.
A few weeks later (before the time of 2-Day shipping) my parts had arrived and I got to work. With the new GPU installed, my desktop idled on my Windows Vista desktop in crisp 1680×1050. As a bit of incentive when I was planning my computer, a friend of mine gave me his old copy of Fallout 3 to play once my new PC was assembled. I quickly installed it and fired it up to test my new digs. The green haze of the Capitol Wasteland glowed brightly on my shining face.
I wholly enjoyed the experience of building, installing, and playing a game on my new-ish PC, but the machine was slow, loud, and I'm pretty sure I didn't make sure my PSU had a high enough wattage rating to support playing a game. I knew I needed to upgrade parts eventually, but my Dad wasn't an ATM, so every computer I've built or bought since has been funded solely by myself. I also knew I needed to build something better, with new and current parts, and build I did.
By high school, I had built several computers, I became the go-to "IT Guy" in my class, and I assisted a lot of teachers and students with their computer questions and problems. I even built a few desktops for my teachers, taking a small profit of course.
There are generally eight different computer parts that one needs to keep in mind for solid compatibility when building a desktop from scratch. As illustrated, the chassis or case has a compatibility relationship with five of the eight components. I found this graphic in a Bitwit YouTube video >> How to Choose Parts for a PC! The Ultimate Compatibility Guide!
Note: Although there are usually eight general categories of components, specialized systems may have a larger number of interacting components, requiring more detailed consideration to avoid conflicts.
In most cases and in most cases (pun intended), there will be some level of tolerances marked to ensure the builder is aware of a particular case’s limits on what can and can’t be installed into it safely. These are usually provided in the product's description, in a user manual, or stamped into the frame of the case. This information can help determine what motherboard standoffs go where, what size fan(s) can be installed, and maximum CPU cooler height.
There are also various standardized sizes for computer cases. These range from gigantic E-ATX cases all the way down to the rarely seen, super-small Pico-ITX cases. Most PC enthusiasts seem to flock toward Full ATX, Mid ATX, or Micro ATX. These are mostly standard sizes that make up the vast majority of aftermarket computer cases.
My personal preferences are between Micro ATX and Mini ITX. As I never use more than one graphics card at a given time and store >90% of my data on my 16 TB Synology NAS, I rarely need a very roomy chassis. My current build is housed in a Fractal Design Define Mini C. This is a steel-bodied, Micro ATX case, with noise dampening foam, fan filters from all sides, and zero RGB. It’s a silent black box that sits in the corner and that’s just the way I like it.
Note: In the two years that have passed since I wrote the majority of this essay, I have changed cases a number of times: usually switching between the above Define Mini C; a Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced; and a Thermaltake "The Tower" 100.
I don't always use the "black box in the corner" style of case. As I noted above, I own a variety of cases that stray slightly from this format and into a slightly more stylish territory (depending on your definition). I'll also often switch between some of these cases for my
Some large E-ATX custom made aluminum case I was gifted
Some unbranded, steel test bench
The Elite 120 fits in my backpack; the Define 7 is enormous and can fit over a dozen 3.5" HDDs; the Define Mini C is a manageable size and solid as a rock; the Tower 100 has a vertical design and is good for showing off; the Core V21 is cube shaped and I have my guest gaming PC in it currently; and the last two are mostly used for testing purposes.
